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Allows the fuse to blow before damaging protection circuitry in the commonly used MG PS10AD 10A Power Supplies. 7.5 Amp (Dark Red) Intended for tracks that are already protected or where Power Supplies can handle momentary shorts. Pro Series fuses are for the Pro Series controllers only and will not work in any other OS3 controller. Click to Play!

Slot Car Controller Manufacturer and Supplier. Dealer and Direct Web Site Sales. Dear Customer Sales Temporarily Closed The website sales will be temporarily closed until the new workshops have been built. Click to Play!

Offering Slot Cars, HO slot cars, 1/32 Slot Cars, 1/24 Slot Cars, Toys, and other hobby product online and shipped to your door. Click to Play!

Aurora brand controller called Control Plus. It is a high performance design with built in brake wire that if used will make your car stop on a dime and a control dial that lets you change resistance to adapt to a track layout or chassis design. Click to Play!


Slot Car Controller | eBay


Controllers overheating - posted in General Slot Car Racing: Having a problem with my controllers overheating to the point they start smoking and burn the wires on the 15 ohm double resistors.
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A buyers guide to hand controllers? - posted in The Controller Corner: Has anyone ever complied a comparison table of the different types/models hand controllers that are currently available? I am seeking a consumer/buyers guide to hand controllers. For example, which comtroller is best for open, G12, S16D motors?
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Controls & Track -                     Scott's Aurora AFX Slot Cars


used slot car controllers
A Slot Car Controller is a handheld device operated by the driver to control the car as it runs around the track. Controllers come in several variations for different classes of racing and cars. Modern controllers are trigger operated, the more you pull the trigger the faster the car will go.
What these 2 controllers do is reverses the polarity of the motor (turns it backwards) activating the added function of the car, turning the headlights on or off, or slowing the motor and turning on the brake lights, or reversing the motor and causing the car or truck to go in reverse, or switching to the other rear end gear for more top speed.

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For example, which comtroller is best for open, G12, S16D motors?
Which controller offers the used slot car controllers brakes?
Which controller has the best sensitivty range?
What does the controller cost?
To me and others that have discussed this in the past and over the years.
What I like and feel is best for me, may click be the best for another racer.
Over the years of my racing, I honestly think I have either owned and or tested and tried about every controller made in the past 20 or so years.
All have their advantages and disadvantages.
I owned 6 of them over a period of 17 years.
I never had a problem with any of my Ruddocks.
I just kept buying updated models over the years and to have as back ups.
Then I started racing retro with my Ruddocks and when I started trying other controllers and found the best feel with a 15 band DiFalco that I borrowed and tried.
I just got a better feel with my retro cars with the DiFalco over the others.
I tried 3rd Eye, JayGee, Carsteen.
I just got the best "feel" with the DiFalco.
So I purchased a 30 band DiFalco and again it has a different feel and I used it on one track with Can-Am, F-1 and Retro Anglewinder.
At Tom Thumb I use the 15 band for everything as I tried the 30 band and can't get the "feel" like I do with the 15 band on that track.
But I can honestly say that all of the controllers out there at the moment.
Ruddock, Carsteen, DiFalco, JayGee, 3rd eye are all popular and all being used.
Some will say they can go faster with one brand of controller than another brand and it's not about the brand as much as it's about the feel.
My 30 band difalco does have a different feel than the others and i also own a 3rd eye just in case i race on a flat track that i need more middle bands to go fast.
Mike Chmielewski a division of Team Fart If I say I'm gonna do something, I'm gonna do used slot car controllers />Where is my glue bottle and wings!!!!!
Prior to that I had a fleet of Turbos with different resistor set ups and parallel resistors with variable ratings.
The Turbos required constant upkeep.
And I needed 8 controllers in the box to run the variety of cars I ran in races and for fun.
The Slotworks would replace most of them if the motor was 4 amps or below.
For better power, I created my own diode based controllers and that became my "one size fits all" controller.
But people kept buying them off me.
The basic replacement "professor motor" in the same handle was the replacement THEN, requiring less maintainence.
But again, the 4 amp limit.
Did a lot of one off experimentals, then about a decade ago or so while at BP, chris handed me a variety of controllers to play with and I took to the Ruddock.
Since then, I use Ruddocksthey suit me.
And seem to run everything I use.
I've tried Third Eyes and no two have the same amount of brakes, and it took me awhile to figure out what I had to do on the Difalco to keep the brakes consistent.
After that, I want nothing else, except to get the Genesis update for my 30 band once Jim has the parts to do it with.
And I still have my original 15 band Difalco I bought from Rollin and did my own special modifications to.
It is still a very reliable controller, though it soon will be changed over to a 30 band.
For my son, I bought a used here band Difalco, and changed it over to a 15 band and upgraded the pots and added a blast relay.
They work, they are tough, they are easy to fix, and if kept clean will work for a long, long time.
Enuff said Michael Rigsby ".
My be he can chime in and tell us where to find it.
Happy Turkey Day too All.
Then I made a trip to The Race Place in Holly Hill, FL and ran the infield portion of Daytona International followed by a trip to Slot Car Raceway - Tampa Bay to run on the Ogilvie 69 aka, The Biotch By The Bay and quickly realized that it was time for more adjustability.
Racers took pity on me in Tampa and loaned learn more here first a Ruddock and then a Difalco.
Since I had an old Parma with a bad resistor, I went with the a 15-band DIY Difalco and later picked up a used Ruddock DR-30.
I eventually found myself using the Difalco more and more and like Ron said, just like the feel.
The Ruddock was too good to just sit in my box, so I sent it to Jairus in the Great Northwest.
I sold my first Difalco to Mike so that I could build a blue Difalco 15-band that I still use every race.
I have done the 30-band upgrade for three or four racers and was thinking about upgrading my own ---- until I saw the new Genesis.
I'll wait and do it all at once.
I love the idea of having the ability to run everything from Scalextric to Wing cars with one controller just by changing the resistor network.
I KNOW that with the Difalco or the Ruddock I'm going to get EXCELLENT customer service if I ever need it.
Jim and Dan might take a shot or two at each other, but they both know how to treat their customers.
When ever I am shopping for something I contact the suppliers direct and listen to what the horses mouth has to say.
After a while you get good at seeing threw the BS and are able to see what makes good common sense.
As far as feel, a good controller should be able to adjust this to the liking of the individual and once it is dialed in there should be no need to mess with it again.
Right now I am working on a recurve option that I will call the flat track curve more forgiving in the middle bands.
My guess is some will like it and some will not and prefer my standard curve.
Dan So I was about to announce it next week, but I might as well do it now.
I will be dropping our Pro Plus controller line from production.
This is the line with the15 fixed individual resistors on each controller band.
In an effort to have the most adjustable line of controllers out there we will now be producing our Fanatic and the HD30 controller lines in both the classic heatsink below the handle and soon to be issued Genesis lines.
I do not believe in sizing the heatsink or power handling to just 16d and g12 type motors.
This gives it an expanded sensitivity range for the popular Falcon type motors over our previous Fanatic with 10 ohm pots per band.
Racers must click to see more confident in the controller they are using.
Feel, consistency and reliability will win a lot of races.
If racers would just open their controller handles, inspect the controller for any potential problems, clean their brake contacts and make sure they have good wiper button contact they will be way ahead of the curve in avoiding controller issues.
That goes for all controller brands.
My pet peave are those tennis wraps racers put on their handles.
Nothing discourages routine maintenance more then trying to take those type wraps off!
My pet peave are those tennis wraps racers put on their handles.
Nothing discourages routine maintenance more then trying to take those type wraps off!
Nothing discourages routine maintenance more then trying to take those type wraps off!
That's why use a bicycle inner tube for a handle cover less slip, more grip!
Well, maybe they are not tennis wraps.
I am talking about the thick rubbery wrap some have that seems like they use industrial glue.
I have also removed some of those fabric wraps and they are glued down pretty well.
Slicing down the joint used slot car controllers the two handles and peeling to get them off.
If they do not have a spare wrap, and they really like driving with it, I bet they will not open cars 32 vintage 1 slot controller unless something happens.
The point was that they keep racers from opening their controllers for simple maintenance.
Racers slave over their cars to get the correct ride height, body height and tires etc.
When I get an old controller in and find that the trigger braid strap has broken I know that the owner pays no attention to their controller.
I just want racers to pay a little more attention to their controllers.
Shining up their brake contacts to remove arcing before it causes intermittent braking does not take much effort.
One of the big reasons all my controllers now come with trigger ball bearings is click at this page it eliminates trigger play and keeps the wiper in contact with the PCB.
One fewer item to maintain.
I designed my threaded trigger pin so racers would be able to take the side play out when it wears.
Just by tightening a afx slot car track />How many racers did this simple tune up?
I sell ball bearing kits with special shims to correctly install them in my old controllers.
How many racers have excessive trigger play and could benefit from the added reliability?
So racers, open your controllers, tighten your trigger adjustment nut and clean something!
Thanks for all the positive feedback.
No it's the "nut" on the controller that causes the problems.
LOL Back to the maintainance thing.
If the brake and full on contacts are pitted or arched pretty good, then the handles have to come off and a bit of 300 or so grit sand paper does the clean job perfectly.
But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only.
You are kidding I hope.
In your case NO.
He said, just box it up and send it back, he'll pretty it all up no prob.
After used slot car controllers seeing Tony since about 1992 or so I have now been to 3 races with him in the last year.
But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only.
Well until you die and still race.
Can I join the queue for your "hand-me-down" controllers?
Only joking Old farts take them with them.
I have also removed some of those fabric wraps and they are glued down pretty well.
Slicing down the joint between the two handles and peeling to get them off.
If they do not have a spare wrap, and they really like driving with it, I bet they will not open that controller unless something happens.
The point was that they keep racers from opening their controllers for simple maintenance.
Racers slave over their cars to get the correct ride height, body height and tires etc.
I just want racers to pay a little more attention to their controllers.
Shining up their brake contacts to remove arcing before it causes intermittent braking does not take much effort.
One of the big reasons all my controllers now come with trigger ball bearings is that it eliminates trigger play and keeps the wiper in contact with the PCB.
One fewer item to maintain.
I designed my threaded trigger pin so racers would be able to take the side play out when it wears.
Just by tightening a locknut.
How many racers did this simple tune up?
I sell ball bearing kits with special shims to correctly install them in my old controllers.
How many racers have excessive trigger play and could benefit from the added reliability?
So racers, open your controllers, tighten your trigger adjustment nut and clean something!
So I don't have a "small" hand, but wrapping around the grip wasn't a good solution, as Jim point's out.
So to make the grip fit my hand and still be quick to remove for renault slot I modified it!
To do this Just click for source bought a Parma handle and glued it to the front half where my hand position and trigger action is most comfortable.
No wraps and still just the three original screws to remove for regular service.
Side view showing the extra width Top view showing extra length to lower the hand position and access hole for original bottom screw.
Plus servicing is a breeze!


Getting WIRED!


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Building your own single transistor controller. Why a single transistor? The vast majority of slot racers will use an electronic controller of one sort or another. The main reason for this is that an electronic controller will allow you to adjust its’ characteristics to suit the car you are driving.


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